Alice Hawkins’ new exhibition ‘The Female Gaze: Revisited’ examines the societal definitions of gender.

Having graduated from Camberwell College of Art in 2002, Alice Hawkins quickly became one of the most enchanting photographers on the scene, as her unique approach towards the subject has been praised over the years with how personal and deeply exploratory it is. In her career, Alice has shot multiple covers of Pop Magazine, i-D, Russian Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar with some of the biggest stars in popular culture including Dolly Parton, Pamela Anderson and Kanye West.

Speaking to Perfect, the London-based photographer reflects on her thrilling career, serving as a modern-day creative psychologist with her deeply vulnerable approach towards showcasing the true human behind the public figure. Her personal understanding of beauty has led to capturing some of the most influential images in modern culture with her element of truth taking primary focus in her 20 year catalogue of work.

“I never want to lose that road trip adventure spirit, exploring and making work with strangers who appear glamorous and extraordinary. Upon revisiting these images I am reminded of my subjects' lives, dreams and hopes, which to me appear timeless,” admits Hawkins, whilst looking back at her wildest experiences in the search for individual beauty, and taking us down memory lane with her beginnings and the stories of her subjects that made her fall in love with capturing the soul.

Now, her newest exhibition The Female Gaze: Revisited at Hartlepool Art Gallery highlights incredible portraits from women all around the world, analysing the changing perceptions of femininity, gender and society.

Perfect: How did you get your start finding your tone and voice within photography? What were your first inspirations?

Alice Hawkins: The first few years after I left college and was just starting out, I realise now looking back 20 years later that some instrumental things happened during that time which ultimately led me to find my voice within photography.

I was commissioned by i-D after a picture editor spotted my work at my degree show but I still knew I had to get a real job to pay my rent, and to potentially also fuel my creative inspiration. Someone miraculously suggested a job at her friend’s shop, Agent Provocateur; it sounded really exciting and I applied. It was a pivotal moment in my life. My inspirations have always been my idols. When I was younger I made a list of my top favourites: Pamela Anderson, Donatella Versace, Dolly Parton, Anna Nicole Smith and Bet Lynch. These women dress up for life and fully embrace their femininity, never apologising for it.

The shop girls I worked with at Agent Provocateur were of the same nature. They all possessed a strong sense of self-cultivated style and identity and they naturally became my muses - as did the strippers at the illegal strip club where I also worked in the evenings as the ‘club photographer.’ Around this time my agent showed my portfolio to Lee Swillingham, the creative director at Pop magazine, and he suggested I meet Katie [Grand]. She partnered me with the stylist Sam Willoughby and we shot a few stories in the UK together. Sam’s styling was clever, considered and also looked believable. Our collaboration was such an integral relationship for my work to grow and take shape.

Our first most memorable work was when Katie sent us to Texas. The moment we stepped off the plane and packed up our rental car it was like driving into a dream. The work we created proved true that everything really good in our experience is in some way beyond our control. The first man I photographed worked at the hotel where we stayed on our arrival, and just before we parted I recall he said to us in his delicious southern drawl, ‘y’all make me feel like a Sunday.’

Perfect: Your images portray people’s most intimate character and the layers between how we present ourselves, how did you realise your unique signature in photography? Did you always have that trait from the beginning?

Alice Hawkins: I have been described as an anthropologist, which I think is true, but I also look at myself through my work. It’s an integral part of my process to embody my subjects and play with my own identity and aspirations. This is a trait I have had since I picked up a camera.

Perfect: How do you see authenticity within your subjects? What is the process behind studying the people you photograph?

Alice Hawkins: I aim to tell something of my subject's story, who they really are, but naturally in directing elements myself I know I'm ultimately portraying my own version of the truth. I think my photographs are really portraits of myself.
The process behind studying my subjects starts by immersing myself into their private worlds to figure out which parts of their story I want to tell.

Perfect: The Female Gaze: Revisited is all about taking control of the perceptions and narrative around women’s sexuality and identity, what was the personal inspiration behind it? How was your creative process shooting and creating this exhibition?

Alice Hawkins: It’s really down to my own personal life experience as to what drives the inspiration behind my work. Creating this exhibition I feel couldn’t have come at a better time. It’s given me a new sense of hope and ambition. Re-earthing work that spans across 20 years of my career is thrilling. As like any artist my aim is for my work to stand the test of time.

Perfect: You have shot some of the most influential people and stories within fashion and culture, is there one thing that merges all stories together?

Alice Hawkins: Sincerity. My work is united because it is driven by my own personal tastes and aspirations. I am honest and genuine in my admiration towards my subjects, and I capture what I genuinely love and offer an invitation to the viewer of my work to accept my extraordinary subjects, some of whom are very glamorous, without a sneer and enjoy them as I do. My work is not superficial.

Perfect: Looking back at your incredible career, how would you describe it? Is there a particular moment that stands out to you that you always think about?

Alice Hawkins: I’m a sentimental person and feel very emotional about my work and the people I’ve met and the places I’ve visited. I don’t just drive through somewhere, I get under the skin of a place, and it often doesn’t end when I leave. Subjects become my friends and I don’t like to ever say goodbye, I prefer, ‘see you down the road!’ It’s a magical feeling when you meet a stranger and capture them, something to be kept and cherished. It’s like putting your arms around someone rather than pressing a button.

Perfect: What are you looking forward to, both creatively and personally in 2022?

Alice Hawkins: I’m very excited to be publishing my new book this summer of my work dedicated to Dolly Parton.

In conjunction with my exhibition at Hartlepool Art Gallery, I am undertaking a new project set within Hartlepool. A collaboration with the photography students at Northern School of Art, supported by Hartlepool Borough Council and Arts Council England. I’m intrigued as to who and what I will discover there and hope to make some revealing work.

The exhibition will run from Saturday 29th January to Saturday 23rd April 2022 and entry is free. Hartlepool Art Gallery is based in Church Square and is open 10am – 5pm Tuesdays to Saturdays.

For more information call (01429) 869706 or visit www.hartlepoolartgallery.co.uk