Antwerp-based designer Dries Criel’s world of jewellery leads a new generation into discovering new ways of designing.
Dries Criel represents a new dawn in the jewellery world. As one of the youngest independent jewellers, his approach has always been to keep progressing a space that has had outdating challenges and issues, and understanding what jewellery means to new generations of people that are all about the individuality and ethics behind their choices.
The Antwerp-born creative first became obsessed with learning details from his mother’s collection of jewels - her memories, beliefs and stories all displayed into a small, prescious jewel box of life’s adventures. Ever since school, his fascination into the world of goldsmiths, the centuries-old craftsmanship and the fine attention into meticulous research and detail is something that Criel found himself into, and spear-headed him into devoting his time and energy into bringing it forward in a way it speaks into a vastly changing world.
Speaking with Perfect, Dries Criel shares how his memories from childhood are still part of his creation process, and what it means to understand deeply personal feelings and sketch them into symbols.
Angel: Dries, what was your first experience with jewellery and the world of accessories? How did you dive into this world?
Dries Criel: The fascination for jewellery and accessories is one of the wonderful interests my mother instilled in me. The memories and anecdotes in that regard go back to primary school. One day, we were given the task of illustrating our dream job through an interview with someone who was in that profession. I chose Goldsmith. So it’s not a surprise that the student job was a great place for a first introduction to a world that was incredibly fascinating to me. It all came together when I started my own brand.
Angel: Coming from Antwerp, the Mecca of jewels, do people have a different relationship with it? How did it feel having access into seeing and learning the craft?
Dries Criel: Antwerp can be better described as the Mecca of diamonds, and as a result I would say that the Antwerp scene is very diamond focussed and thus more classic. Luckily Antwerp is, at the same time, a very creative and vibrant city to live in and times are (finally) changing in the jewellery business as well. I am very grateful to have been able to learn the business and experience the craftsmanship up close. For me the goal is to contribute to the challenge of keeping the craftsmanship and know-how n Antwerp alive and active. Experiencing the classic ways of working, both when it comes to materials and presenting fine jewellery, gave me the strength to try and redefine elements for my own story. A contemporary vision with a true passion for the craft.
Angel: What is your process in designing like? Is there a specific way in which you approach designing and crafting?
Dries Criel: Everything starts from inspiration, sometimes an obsession. It happens naturally: I don’t allow myself to think about it, it’s suddenly there, at the most unexpected moments and places. This is how I put together collages and from these my first sketches are born. At the hands of talented craftsmen in Belgium and Italy, these sketches are subsequently developed into technical drawings and wax models. This creates the final pieces in gold, gemstones, enamel, …
Angel: Being an independent jeweller in a very competitive industry, how has it been for you to develop and grow?
Dries Criel: In my opinion, everything begins and ends with a strong vision for the design, the product and the target customer. I know so many great fine jewellery designers whom I respect and admire greatly, and whom I consider friends that I support to the fullest. Yes, it is a competitive industry but a strong story and vision really makes the difference.
Angel: How do you see people’s relationship to jewellery developing in the current world climate?
Dries Criel: I am a firm believer in the energy it gives to an individual. Jewellery, in all forms and sizes, both gives and demands character from the wearer. It differentiates the wearer, projects freedom, and we can never have enough color and freedom in the world.
Angel: What do you look forward to, personally and professionally?
Dries Criel: I am very grateful for the journey, being able to do what I do as a profession. Jewellery is my absolute passion and I intend to build a strong world around my story and vision, supported by unique and colourful customers and retail platforms around the world.