Leeann Huang on her cyber camp inspirations, growing up in LA, and her love for rebellious London.
Inspired by her grandmother recreating replicas of old Fendi and Moschino collections, LA-born and London-based Leeann Huang became engulfed with the art of creating fantasy through fashion. Drawing upon joy as a feeling and a state of mind, Huang’s process of creating begins from her relationship with fabrics and the emotion evoked through them. Speaking to Perfect, she opens up about feeling like an alien in the suburbs of LA and how her love for food has become a main element of her experimental process of creation.
Perfect: When did you first realise that you wanted to become a fashion designer?
Leeann Huang: My grandmother was a doll maker and seamstress and my mom makes ballroom dance gowns and used to make her own knock-offs of every Fendi or Moschino season when I was growing-up, so I’ve always been encouraged and taught to be clever and crafty with clothes. I realised it when I was 12 and watched the Marc Jacobs Louis Vuitton documentary and it all clicked. The fantasy and the lifestyle of constantly creating seemed really magical. More recently after graduating into the pandemic and leaving a really toxic job, I decided it was probably the best time to pursue my own practice.
Perfect: What themes and elements inspire your work most?
Leeann Huang: My constant motivation in my work is what’s bringing joy to my life at that moment and how I can translate that playfulness to clothing. Whether it be food or ‘60s television or suburban landscapes. A lot of these themes are rooted in my childhood and how I perceived the future would be as a child. For example, I always wanted clothes that could be animated like a television. I took inspiration from my dad’s collection of lenticular posters and post cards and developed a textile that could mimic that holographic technique to create a dress with blinking eyes, cow print handbag that changes colours, and a python coat that moves. It’s exactly what my favourite television heroines would’ve worn and makes people who wear my clothes want to dance around to see how the textile moves. I also just have a love for hand-crafted things and colourful and innovative textiles. I love constantly experimenting and learning new processes and how they can be applied to clothes and materials. What results is sometimes surreal and unexpected. I like to play with expectation a lot with how clothes are perceived and worn. Take elements of everyday or commonly seen clothing and change it with the print design, textiles, or construction.
Perfect: What can the process of conceptualising and constructing a project look like for you?
Leeann Huang: I studied and trained in print and embroidery, so I like to design garments from textile up. Usually, I’ll just start hoarding different fabric and materials that seem exciting to me and spend time experimenting and toile-ing. I love combining very traditional techniques like embroidery and crochet with unconventional materials to create something new. For example, I used rubber piping meant for computer wiring to macramé a gown, embroidered moulded recycled plastic bottles onto a dress, or crocheted and linked lenticular fabric to create fuzzy and shiny dresses. I typically like to use recognisable and tailored base garments as the canvas for these textiles, like a Mac coat, a beret, or shift dress. Colour and texture and function are my constant guides with designing.
Perfect: What can your work tell us about you as an individual?
Leeann Huang: Jubilant, colourful, funky, and a bit indulgent. As a person I tend to be pretty introverted but I express myself through my work. I think the bright colours, themes and textures show the joy and fun I want to inject in my work. The technique and detail show how obsessive and meticulous I can be. I honestly can sew or embroider for hours and it’s the most satisfying feeling for me.
Perfect: What do you enjoy most about being a creative in London? How has the city influenced your work?
Leeann Huang: I think London is so unique because of the community and positive and encouraging energy everyone has. Growing up in LA or living in Paris before, there is a strong cynicism that comes from capitalism and having to work so tirelessly in an industry that doesn’t pay much. I don’t see that as much in London. All my friends here have this can-do attitude and is just motivated by the love of the craft. That energy alone and being surrounded by friends who are genuine to themselves are so inspiring.
Perfect: Which have been some of your favourite projects to date?
Leeann Huang: Recently I got the chance to produce my most recent collection and exhibit it with friends the my hometown of LA. It was such an eye-opening and collaborative experience. I based my collection on feeling like a glamorous alien in the suburbs of LA, especially coming home during the pandemic. I got to shoot it at my childhood bestfriend’s house down the street from my old Christian school. My friend who runs her own established brand immediately took me under her wing and introduced me to so many local craftsmen to help me produce it. 3 friends from London and I took over a cousin’s gallery for a night for the exhibition and made so many new friends. It was a lovely homecoming. Aside from that my 2018 graduate collection will always hold a place in my heart. It was a Dali-esque feast themed collection based on my love for food. I moulded knits out of chocolate and jelly; tailored suits and coats to reveal special foodie surprises as the wearer would moved or unbuttoned. Forks and spoons were soldered and moulded into jewellery and eyewear; oranges and walnuts were beaded into a Swarovski chandelier trousers. Half the collection was edible and the other half looked good enough to eat. It was such a fun collection to make and present. I even got one of my prints tattooed on my arm to mark the milestone of graduating.
