SS22: Fashion East.
Fashion East’s return to the physical schedule this year - albeit only semi - was easily one of the most exciting and eagerly anticipated offerings at London Fashion Week. Hordes of fans flocked to the ICA’s picturesque halls in hopes of glimpsing the non-profit close the season in the style.
Opening the show, Chet Lo transported us all to his own holiday-like haven, fittingly titled ‘Splash’, where his signature, visionary knits formed electric bodysuits, one-pieces, matching sets and evening dresses perfect for a day’s trip to the beach. Not forgetting the essentials; pool noodles, inflatable tube rings and swim hats all made an appearance donning Lo’s staple spikes in a warm palette of orangey-pink sunsets and white beaches - teasing the tropical holiday theme even further.
Maximilian followed swiftly, with his gorgeously tailored “pose-wear” garments inspired by his Trinidadian background. Incorporating the country’s sense of nostalgia, freedom and homecoming into naval Militarian-like shirts, cut-out bodysuits and long, slinky lycra dresses. Paraded in a mesmerising blend of blacks, whites, soft blues and signature vivid reds - the latter a specific reference to Trini’s native Scarlet Ibis bird. To close the show, Maximilian’s own giant, sea urchin-like sculpture descended onto the FROW, consuming the entirety of the runway and leaving the audience completely under his spell.
Opting for a more performance-based showcase, Jawara Alleyne presented his second collection with the establishment through a blend of poised models and mannequins. The recent Central Saint Martins graduate, known for putting his Jamaican-Caymanian heritage at the heart of his work, introduced an up-cycled collection of shaggy, slit patchwork jeans and safety-pin adorned tops. A noticeable evolution from last season’s silks and jerseys, but also a collection crafted entirely and incredibly, from start to finish, on the bedroom floor of his own East London flat.
On the digital side, HrH & Goom Heo both chose to showcase their talents through online look books this season. The former, moved by the past summer’s Tokyo Olympics and her own personal history in gymnastics, introduced a collection perfect for the modern, fashionable female athlete. Styling sky-blue cut out biker shorts and colourful cycling sunglasses with sexy, embellished swimwear and bikini sets. Whilst Goom Heo’s garments, almost as if in complete opposition, plays on the complex interconnectivity of chaos and darkness. Forging grungy, slashed denim jeans, elaborate glove wear and long jersey numbers that elegantly wind around the body.
Since its founding in 2000, the non-profit has well and truly established itself as the destination for fashion’s next and best. This year’s might’ve seen fan-favourite Maximilian partake in the scheme yet again, now his third collection with Fashion East, but it surely won’t be long before he’s out dominating fashion week all on his own.