Eckhaus Latta Autumn Winter 23 Collection, shown in New York.

It’s a truism to say that in fashion, agility matters. That truism hit home for Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta of Eckhaus Latta, who last season had their entire collection lost in transit after shipping it to Paris for sales.

The experience led to a more sober mood than the designers were in for spring, when they showed an ebullient collection in a downtown park, in the bright light of day. This season they opted for an evening show in a smallish, dark space with an aura of mystery. And they felt compelled to reconsider fashion’s traditional segmentation of seasons into “pre-“ and runway. The upshot: Why silo their brand’s commercial and more advanced elements? Eckhaus and Latta are over that, at least for now. They’ve opted for a more holistic approach, and for fall did not do a separate pre-collection, instead combining its highlights into the runway effort. The challenge, Latta said post-show, was “to be more dedicated to everyday clothes and how to make those interesting, rather than making an absurd gesture and then something very basic.”

Sometimes that interest came from elements of deconstruction, such as inside-out constructions and exposed seams, and sometimes, from savvy rethinking of classics. A bustier-sleeves-and-trouser look, cut from men’s wear suiting, put a smart spin on tailoring; an asymmetric shirtdress had artful allure.

There was also a new sense of sensuality with a touch of subversion. Nearly naked knot dresses and tops left little to the imagination (but can be repurposed as layering pieces); numerous looks for women and men bore skin-baring, horizontal slits with zippers; a sweatshirt was cropped just below the model’s breasts. Such looks created provocation without hyperbole. Rather, the overall takeaway was one of smart control that should serve the brand well as it continues to grow.