Ulla Johnson’s glazed leather and sculpted tulip skirts for AW23. #NYFW

Guests arriving to Ulla Johnson’s show at the Spiral in Hudson Yards found glorious views out the skyscraper windows and a clue underfoot: For her runway, Johnson commissioned an elaborate Moroccan carpet, with an intricate, abstract pastiche of textures and designs in earthy hues. A betting person could have put money down on a collection highly focused on surface activity. A betting person would have been right.

Johnson has directed her flourishing business towards the broad swath of women who want clothes that are feminine and approachable but still interesting. She distilled that focus into a core aesthetic of demonstrative prettiness with a soupçon of bohemia. That means lots of patterns, craftsy textures, and a considerable flounce factor. All of which were on display for fall in a palette, which, like the carpet, took its cues mostly from Mother Earth.

Still, one sensed a turn in a more obviously urbane direction. Johnson loves a powerful print, and here used large graphic patterns to heighten the sophistication of her gently tiered dresses. She also showed plenty of her signature artisanal knits, many now more sensual and closer to the body. Johnson diversified manifestations of her texture obsession, swapping out some prints for solid materials. Top of the list: glazed leather. Some of it worked well, for example, a fab shirtdress painted with two giant flowers. On the other hand, a little shiny leather goes a long way, especially when employed in demonstrative shapes like sculpted tulip skirts and extra-baggy track pants. Ditto the moire taffeta evening poufs that veered too directly to the Eighties. Conversely, a long dress in shiny wine satin worn with a big-sleeved rust satin coat looked the picture of languid refinement.