Shoe designer Steven Ma wants to collaborate with Demna and carve fashion’s new luxury.
Parsons graduate Steven Ma is part of a new, sleek, cosmic movement in fashion. The London-based shoe-maker started his label in 2021 after careful planning for 3 years shaping the DNA and the soul of his designs through the behaviour and feeling of objects, shapes and colours surrounding him. Ma’s journey so far has seen him as one of the hottest young creatives on the London scene, picking the interest of iconic retail curators like Machine-A.
Speaking to Perfect, Steven Ma expresses more of his journey towards finding his core DNA, the current relationship between fashion schools and their students, and his goal of working with Balenciaga’s Demna.
Angel: Steven, what were your first feelings and thoughts about fashion growing up, how did your love for fashion grow?
Steven Ma: I didn't have any idea of what fashion was growing up, though I was paying lots of attention to inspiring and beautiful things from nature, insects and minerals, until the first time I saw a fashion show by Alexander Mcqueen and I was so mind blown by how he combined nature to fashion. Since then I have had this strong thought in my mind of becoming a designer.
Angel: Starting out, what turned you towards leather goods and shoe-making?
Steven Ma: I started out studying fashion design in Parsons and I was making clothes. And I was curious about the craftsmanship of shoes and handbag-making so I went to learn the shoe making process in Italy and with more understanding I had about the fashion industry, especially the luxury market, I started losing interest because most of the luxury houses are putting their logos on every single shoe and bag and they are not innovative and exciting anymore. I believed there must be a community who is aligned with my thoughts and I want to create an emerging brand that can bring something different, a new "luxury" brand with craftsmanship, quality and uniqueness and to connect with the community.
Angel: You graduated from Parsons Design School in 2017 and have attributed immense success, what did your time at design school teach you? How is it different to working in real-life?
Steven Ma: I mainly learnt technical knowledge about fashion. But the real skills I learnt were from my internships in the fashion companies and when I started my business 2 years ago. I still have so much to learn as I am learning now. The most difficult part is how to run a company and the production of my leather goods which my school didn't teach. I came across with two amazing professors Martin Price and Aneta Genova and they were very encouraging and helpful. except for that, I think Parsons didn't provide much help to the students.
Angel: Your designs have gained incredible popularity, especially on the London scene, where does your inspiration come from? What is your creation process like?
Steven Ma: Thank you so much for your kind words. My inspirations come from my feelings and emotions toward relationships in life, contrast in colors, shapes, material and texture, and objects like architecture, furniture, et cetera. I would interpret with those inspirations and connect them with my emotions and I would start sketching. I always bring a notebook with me. Actually I am designing a pair of shoes at the moment inspired by an air-filtering system outside of a building that I saw in London.
Angel: How do you see the growth of Steven Ma in the near future?
Steven Ma: With the help of close friends around me and industry people who are supporting emerging designers like myself, the brand is doing well considering we only launched for 1 season. And for the near future it would be amazing to open up to more stores worldwide and start collaborating with the work that I admire and different industries. And steadily, hopefully the brand can grow bigger through our hard work and innovation.
Angel: What are you also looking forward to personally?
Steven Ma: I am looking forward to working as an accessory designer for designers who I love and respect like Raf Simons and Demna. It would be a dream come true and a completely different experience than working on my own brand. And there's so much to learn from those brilliant minds.